Now it’s clear that the dressier pieces have suffered at the hands of the chunky steel sports watches over the years, which offer that ‘do it all’ rugged ability started decades ago with the likes of the Submariner and Speedmaster. For years dress watches were on the small side. Watches at sizes of 36mm and below were a perfect accessory for the well dressed gent. But we live in changing times and it’s time to mix things up again. Don’t think you can wear a dress watch in a casual setting? Well, think again, and JLC has the answer.
JLC Master Ultra Thin Moon
If you haven’t done so already, why not check out the unboxing in a previous episode.
Finding the One
As you know I’ve been courting this watch for some time, using my famous mood board to help me through the selection process. With a significant milestone to celebrate it was worth taking the time to get a forever piece, one I would cherish and not just see as a vehicle to the next.
As I’ve developed my tastes and understanding of various watch brands and watch designs, I’ve grown very attached to JLC. And as you’ll know from my review of the Master Control Calendar back in 2020, we were really close then.
The obvious choice would be to go for a Reverso, JLC’s iconic rectangular watch dating back to 1931 and arguably one of the first sports watches. A watch worn by both Pierce Bronsnan in the Thomas Crown affair, very much a personal favourite of mine and the perfect date movie in my humble opinion. But also Christian Bale as Batman’s alter ego Bruce Wayne. Two great performances that would give any man of a certain age the perfect excuse to just go and buy one.
But no, I’ve tried the Reverso on a few times, I appreciate it, but it’s just not for me. I’m never closed to changing my mind, and it’s definitely a watch I want to like and own with the right size and complication at some point.
How to Choose the Right Watch
One of the first rules of watch collecting after, “only buy what you can afford”, is only buy pieces you like, not ones others would otherwise suggest you should. Buy what feels good. I can’t explain it, but you’ll know when it happens.
This feeling has only happened to me three times in recent memory. The first being the my initial encounter with the Rolex Millgaus Zee Blue. A watch that immediately triggered a chemical reaction in my body that flooded it with joy and made the hair on the back of my arms stand to attention. I foolishly passed on that occasion, a decision I regretted later, but that’s the danger of tyre kicking watches when you don’t have the money at the time.
The second was the Speedmaster Apollo 8. It just felt right. Now there’s still a chance with that one, as you’ll still see them in Omega dealer windows, new and unloved. A watch that has ceased production and missed it’s launch window. A future classic maybe?
And then there’s the subject of this video and my most recent acquisition, a JLC I can bond with. A watch I initially tried on in April 2021. Something different, something elegant. A watch designed and assembled with the utmost attention to detail by a house that cares for such things. I give you the Jaeger LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon.
Moon Phase Watches
Let’s get the obvious question out of the way first. Why did I need or want a moon phase in the collection? Well, as is the case with all watch purchases, there is no rational reason. No more than the need for a mechanical stopwatch in my Speedmaster.
But when it comes to the purpose of ‘this’ purchase. One to celebrate a significant milestone, and in this case a 25thwedding anniversary, there were two aspects to my thought process. The first being something silver for the anniversary, and in this case a silver dial. The second, and, without going all philosophical, I wanted to inject some romance, some elegance and above all, something that both my wife and I could feel connected to. Feelings that you can’t describe, you’re just aware of them. They make you feel good. Special. And bring back happy memories.
I was a budding astronomer in my teenage years [show the photo album]. Never too far from a planisphere, and something I wish to pursue again in the near future when time becomes my friend again.
Casting my mind back many years to our initial courtship at university, my then girlfriend and I would find a patch of grass on the way back from the pub, lie down and gaze up at the heavens doing our best to pick out constellations, planets and the odd shooting star. Now what happened next is none of your business, but you get the point, we both have a love of the celestial, not to mention me being a rocket nerd.
Now I could have gone another route and talked about how the sun and the moon were our primary form of time and date keeping for many thousands of years, and all of that is true, but being a romantic, I prefer the former.
Why JLC
Followers of mine will have seen I have I tried other moon phase watches of which there are a good few out there, notably from Longines at a very attainable prices, but for this occasion the love boat was pushed out big time and settling for a piece that didn’t fire all those indescribable feelings just wasn’t going to cut it and there was no going back after trying on the JLC.
Since owning and wearing the watch, watch lovers refer to my Jaeger (jay-j-air) with a hint of a French accent. Even the name resonates romance.
The price of this particular watch has risen dramatically over the past 12 months where it now retails for £10,800 that’s around £2,000 in a year and is a true sign that JLC is trying to distance itself from the main-stream brands and quite rightly given what is on offer from one of the worlds best watch makers.
It’s my understanding that JLC will move as others are to a boutique model and it’s clear as is happening with other brands, that supply and pricing are balancing so discounting will become more challenging to come by although still available in some AD’s if you ask nicely.
I’ve done my best, but I have to mention the watch makers watch maker cliché, or La Grande Maison as they say locally. This title is absolutely well earned and used within the industry.
Although the Jaeger LeCoultre company was formed in 1937, Antoine LeCoultre was pioneering micro precision techniques to develop highly precise calibres nearly 200 years ago, and to this day, JLC design, manufacture and assemble everything from calibre to case under one roof, giving them total control over quality. So never be in doubt whether you’re getting an in-house calibre or not. You’re actually getting ‘the’ in-house calibre. Part of the Richemont group for 20 years, JLC sits in good company alongside Cartier, Vacheron, A. Lange & Sohne, IWC and Panerai to name just a few. Names we’d all like to see in our watch boxes.
Master Ultra Thin Collection
The Ultra Thin range pays tribute to the ultra thin pockets watches of the early 20th century. This particular model has been in the collection for 10 or so years and just undergone a small face lift with minor changes to the dial, a longer power reserve and new quick release hardware for the strap and buckle have brought this model up to date while maintaining a clear visual style.
It now sits along side both gents a ladies versions in both steel and gold with various complications from a simple small seconds to the extravagance of the tourbillon moon. Although blue and black dials are available with the steel case, I think the silvered grey opaline dial looks so classy, timeless and in my opinion makes the watch more versatile. This isn’t just a dress watch.
Dial
Focusing on the dial, JLC describe this as silvered grey with a sunray brush. The sunray aspect is very subtle but the mat finish allows surprising good contrast to the polished and faceted dart style indices and dauphine style hands, both of which are rhodium plated. In contrast, the sweeping seconds hand is a wonderful blue heat treated affair giving a hint of colour on an otherwise monochrome dial.
This is where the moon phase aspect comes into its own, breaking the dial up nicely in the lower half. There are two complications in this sub window with a radial date adjusted by a pusher on the right side of the case and the moon phase adjusted by the left side pusher. The moon phase disc is finished in the same blue as the seconds hand with a polished metallic moon and stars. The disc looks almost black, but the blue catches the light giving a surprise flash of colour as you roll your wrist.
We have an applied JLC logo at the 12 o’clock with the full name printed below. No other text necessary or welcome.
Case
The case is highly polished and measures up at 39mm in diameter, 46mm across the lugs and 9.7mm thick making this watch very worthy of it’s name. This is no diver however despite having 50m of water resistance.
This is a watch that almost anyone can wear and sits perfectly on my 6 ¾” wrist. The case has a very slender mid case design emphasising this is an ultra thin watch with the polished 2 stage bezel retaining the sapphire crystal. There’s a very well executed screwed display case back giving front row seats to the very accomplished calibre 925.
Movement – Calibre 925
Thanks to the introduction of the Master range in 1992, all calibres benefit from the incredible 6 week or 1,000 hour Control testing and ensure each fully cased watch exceeds chronometer standards of -4 +6 seconds per day. Although no absolute values are quoted, this calibre 925 is easily keeping +2 -2 seconds per day in the time I have had it. In the recent facelift, the movement now has 70 hours of power reserve up from 43 and the skeletonised gold winding rotor is supported by ceramic bearings increasing winding efficiency and service life. But as with some modern Rolex, it rattles like a fidget spinner on the unlubricated bearing surfaces. I don’t mind this, and it reminds me there’s something special on my wrist.
Calibre 925 is super thin at 4.9mm and includes the moon phase complication which only adds a single millimetre over the small seconds variant. The additional gearing ensures the moon passes over every 29 and a half days according the JLC. Higher complication watches will track this more precisely, but in this instance it will only be out by 1 day after 3 years, which I can certainly live with.
Although not stated, I believe this calibre has silicon parts making it somewhat anti-magnetic, but JLC do issue a care message warning the user about magnetism, so I don’t expect this to have Omega levels protection.
Warranty Period
JLC sent me a lovely email once I registered for the 8 year warranty and I have been in touch with their UK operations a few times asking about the watch and always had a prompt and concise response each time. Excellent service.
I bought this particular piece from Berry’s in Leeds. Another source of superb customer service, unlike my experience in Watches of Switzerland. Berry’s also sourced me a shorter strap as the one supplied is rather on the long side.
Leather Strap
The strap itself is a beautiful mat black finished alligator affair with black stitching and grey calf leather on the underside. The strap is 21mm at the lugs and 18mm at the buckle and comes with quick release spring bars for tool less changeover. The deployant clasp is a friction fit design that’s highly polished and very comfortable. It too has quick release with a small button that releases the spring bar without fuss.
Is it a Keeper?
Summing up then. I love this watch. In fact I wear this watch a lot. I wear it to work in a business casual environment, I wear it to go shopping in jeans and a sweater. This is a very versatile watch and in steel with the silver dial, a perfect under the radar combination.
As a collector who likes to rotate through all his watches, versatility counts for a lot. Yes, the sports watches get more than their fair share of attention, but this is the watch that grabs the attention of others and gets the nod from those who know.
I know we’re only talking a millimetre here or there, but for me 39mm with lug to lug wingspan sub 50mm is perfect for my wrist. With the super thin bezel, the dial is just the right size. It’s not the most legible watch I own, but that’s not the point. It’s elegance and feel good factor, the knowledge that the watch has been crafted by the best movement engineers in the business is where I derive immense satisfaction.
It’s noticeable as well that the secondary market isn’t flooded with this model. A testament to how this piece sits in a collection. A keeper you might say.
