To some, IWC are just 3 letters on the Formula 1 driving gloves of Lewis Hamilton, but to dismiss their history and elegant, engineering led approach amongst the hype of other brands means you’re missing out on some seriously great pieces. The watches I have today are from one of IWC’s core model lines that’s been in their catalogue since the 1930’s and in my view should be talked about alongside similar icons of that period such as the Cartier Santos and JLC Reverso. I present to you the IWC Portugieser.
Exploring the IWC Portugieser: A Timeless Classic
Like most watch brands, IWC has many pillars in the product line up all stuffed with complications, colours, sizes and straps. The Portugieser sits alongside the Pilots Watches, the dressier Portofino the Genta designed and recently launched Ingenieur that I hope to get some time with soon, and IWC’s dive watch line in the Aquatimer.
History of the Portugieser
The Portugieser dates back to 1939 with reference 325 and built by IWC at the request of two Portugese merchants looking for large wrist watches with the precision of a pocket watch for their domestic market. These had the trademark large open time only dial with the sub seconds counter at 6 o’clock. I was lucky enough to see an example from the 1950’s when I visited the Schaffhausen museum back in 2020. Worth dropping in if you’re passing.
Back in the 40’s and 50’s, this watch was a monster with a 41.5mm case diameter and probably went some way as to why sales were slow to non-existent with around 700 produced in total between 1939 and 1981, which is also great news for collectors.
Roll forward to 1993 and the 125th anniversary of IWC and the re-launch of the Portugese as it was called then, finally becoming the Portugieser in 2015 at the models 75th anniversary. This is German for Potugese and aligns to the German speaking area of Switzerland that Schaffhausen sits in and respects the popularity of the 325 model in Germany back in the day. Throughout the 90’s IWC filled out the model line up with the 42mm, the annual calendar and the chronograph with its distinctive vertical sub registers and 12 and 6.
Looking at today’s line up the automatic 40 with the white dial and blued hands is pretty close to that original 325, although black dial 325’s were also available.
In a recent interview with Watchpro to celebrate the 2024 new model line up and in particular the incredible Eternal Calendar, IWC CEO Chris Granger said of the Portuguiser:
“It’s a question of perspective. But if you actually just look at the design continuity of the collections then it has to be the Portugieser, which has been in continuous production since 1939. It’s the only line where you can take the original piece and put it next to the new version, and see complete continuity. I think in terms of where we are as a watchmaker, the Portugiuser is the backbone and heart of the brand”.
2024 Update at Watches & Wonders
IWC made quite a splash in 2024 Watches and Wonders with the launch of the Eternal Calendar model in the Portugieser range. A real technical tour de forece that’s as brilliant as it is utterly useless in the real world. It’s one of those challenges watch brands set themselves that I love to engineer something just because they can, and in this instance a watch that if it ran continuously without the inconvenience of servicing would maintain calendar accuracy until the year 3999 at which point someone needs to decide if there’s a leap year.
Equally impressive is the moonphase accuracy at 45 million years! Slightly better than the IWC perpetual calendar at 577 days or the normal average 29.5 day moon phase most of us endure such as the one in my JLC. It’s this micro engineering and mechanical genius that truly draws me in. Amazing stuff.
Looking back at the regular range, the biggest change for 2024 is with the 42mm 7 day with a reduction in height of over 1mm and a reworking of calibre 52011 to offer more anti-magnetism. 1mm doesn’t sound like a lot, but certainly makes the watch sit flatter on the wrist than the previous generation, which is large, but by no means too big.
It’s kind of the point being a pocket watch on the wrist, part of the DNA. At a recent trip to an IWC boutique I was able to see side by side where the case had been slimmed down. You can see from the photo that the crown has shifted up in the case with the front and rear bezels and crystals significantly slimmed down. These small changes feel substantial on the wrist taking the watch from a maybe to a definitely in my view.
Having such a large dial allows IWC to slot in a couple of complications in the power reserve and date alongside the constant seconds. I find this tastefully done where the 7 day power reserve is a genuine complication and deserving of attention.
Both models, including the 41mm chronograph and 44mm perpetual calendar are available in an array of steel and precious metal casings with a number of dial colours available. In 2024 IWC have launched 3 new colours with the new case sizes. I assume older models will slowly be replaced in time and more harmonization applied to the overall range.
We now have Horizon Blue in white gold, Obsidian in what IWC call 5N Gold, which is an 18ct gold with 25% copper alloy and finally Dune in Stainless Steel. The 42mm in white and steel continues in the new case, with the deletion of the red detail on the power reserve, a design feature I quite liked.
So what I have here are two watches on loan. A 42mm 7 day automatic in the new for 2024 Dune collection and a 40mm Pink or Salmon dial time only introduced in 2023 as an additional dial variant from the 2020 launch model.
IWC Portugieser 40mm
Let’s look at the specs first. The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 I have here is reference IW358313, the last 2 digits determining the dial and hand combination. The time only stainless steel models retail at £6,500 and pegged squarely against the Rolex Datejust and Omega Aqua Terra, albeit without the date. It’s certainly the sophisticated choice.
The watch has a diameter of 40mm. A lug to lug across the wrist of 48.9mm and a thickness of 12.5mm making this one wearable for most wrists. I have a 170mm wrist and found it almost perfect. The case is stainless steel with a no screw down crown and a water resistance of 30m. This is not a swimable watch. The watch weighs in at a very light 86g. For reference my JLC Master Ultrathin Moon weighs 68g. The lug width is 20mm making it ideal for strap options with a taper down to 18mm with the stainless steel butterfly clasp.
There is a specific bracelet version of the 40mm, but to me makes more sense on leather. This Italian made soft calf skin leather strap is super comfortable and compliant.
The hand assembled, pink salmon dial has a metallic sunray effect that contrasts well with the rhodium plated slim hands and applied numerals with the constant seconds sub dial having a radial effect to contrast it against the dial. All the hardware is beautifully finished on both watches when viewed under magnification.
All Portugugeiser models have open case backs where here displayed is the in-house caliber 82200 which has some nice detailing with gold accents.
This movement is 30mm in diameter using IWCs Albert Pellaton automatic pawl-winding system first introduced 60 years ago and has hacking seconds. It has 31 jewels, runs at 28,800vph and runs for 60 hours.
Summing up a nice package with some very styling colour choices. Which would I pick? It’s a tough call, but money no object I’d go Gold with the Obsidian dial. Actual me – this salmon dial is tough to beat.
IWC Portugieser 42mm
So, moving on to the IWC Portugieser Automatic 42mm we have reference IW501705 retailing at £11,500. Now this is big boy territory, but given what’s on offer there’s for sure a premium to be paid over the 40 and 41mm models. Is this an £11,000 watch? I’m not sure, that’s for you to decide. For those looking to bag one of the previous models, these can be found new for under £8,000 on the high street.
This model has a 42.4mm case with a 51.7mm lug to lug which isn’t so bad with a strap that pulls down and is comparable to an Omega Speedmaster Professional. The case thickness is 13.0mm which is super slim for the size and make the case far more elegant than some of the hockey pucks out there.
The case is stainless steel with a no screw down crown and a water resistance of 50m, so a bit more swimmable if you swap out the leather strap. The watch weighs in at a very light 102g. For reference my Omega Planet Ocean 43.5mm on rubber is 135g, so win again for IWC. The lug width is 22mm with a greater taper down to 18mm with the stainless steel and very robust, almost steam punk deployant clasp.
This model is fitted with a thick, but soft alligator leather strap that I found really comfortable with plenty of holes either way for larger or smaller wrists. I think I’d be asking for a slightly shorter strap as I’m not keep on too much of the strap tail coming back under.
Again, there is a specific bracelet version of the 42mm in blue. I tried it on at a boutique and there’s a lot to like, but again I’d stick to the leather straps.
With the 42mm dial we have the Dune, metallic sunray effect with a 60 step process including 15 layers of clear lacquer, ground and polished to give optical depth. With the distinctive railway track seconds track around the perimeter it’s certainly easy on the eye. The hand applied numerals and hands are solid gold and it’s fair to say in certain light conditions are a challenge to read at a glance, however are very striking and got plenty of complements from non-watch enthusiast.
The 42mm also has a date window and it’s nice to see the date disc colour matched on all models. Something the likes of Omega could take a few tips from. It’s this attention to detail and the absolute fine finishing of the dial and case that marks this watch up in the price range and needs to be held and admired to appreciate it.
Now on the back of this one we have what must be the ultimate clear case back, and for me a real show stopper. The 38mm calibre 52011 fills the case cavity giving an edge-to-edge effect that few offer, affording it real bragging rights.
This is an evolution of the 2015 calibre update that saw upgrades to the Pellaton system as well as the addition of twin barrels to aid release of all that 168 hour power reserve. With 249 components, 31 jewels, running at 28,800vph over 7 days, this is a weekend watch you can rest for the week and come back to it with 2 days left in the tank. Impressive stuff.
Now speaking of appreciation and value. There’s somethings that can’t be described, they have to be felt. In this case I’m talking about the winding feel of the 52011 calibre. It’s meaty, but smooth with almost no backlash in the gear system up to the handset. Now I’m not sure if that equals additional wear and tear, but it feels so damn good.
The 42mm range is stunning. It’s a shame the old model is actively advertised at massive discounts as this may put some collectors off. However, it also offers exceptional value if you don’t mind the extra millimeter of the run out model.
Now, which one would I pick? I’m going steel on this one and it’s a toss up between this Dune version and the blue dial on the bracelet. There was a black dial that I really liked on the old model which is now only available in a gold case, so maybe it’s worth road testing at a lower price point and hang on for deal on one of the new models later down the line.
So in summary, has time with these two watches affected my affection for the Portugeiser range. The honest and simple answer is no. Which would I want to own if I had to pick either, well I’d go with the 42mm but could still get a lot of please out of the 40mm time only. I’ve never realty warmed to the chronograph 41mm and the perpetual calendars are ludicrously large for my slender wrists. I feel JLC would offer a better outcome there.
As daft as it sounds I’m tempted to go back and try the 2022 release with white dial and blue panda sub dials. I think it’s pretty striking and lots of fun. Yeah I could go dressy with some of the metallic dials, but I’m all about versatility, and this one would be a riot to wear on any occasion. It also has the little flash of red on the power reserve that I miss.
