Imitation Game
They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and when it comes to homage watches, it appears that anything goes. At all levels and price points, there are releases that at first glance look like direct copies, but are in fact trends where success breads success, be it in dial colour or bracelet design.
So when I was browsing the offerings from Ali Express, you could understand why I may have been a little reluctant to take up their offer of sending me a watch to review. I mean, who wants to be mugged for wearing a Pagani Design Pepsi or a San Martin Kermit. These are not homages, but pure copies. Arguably better than an out and out fake, as they don’t carry the original logo, but copies none the less.
Normally, this fakery is not what I’m about, but even I had to start somewhere. As a penniless 17 year old, looking for his first watch, my Sekonda Datejust look alike fitted the bill, so I’m not here to judge. It’s just a different world now, and I think in a world of everyone wanting to look the same and have the same things, I can see the temptation.
But then I cam across this interesting looking chronograph, and thought. Yes, this is worth a closer look. Like Indiana Jones picking out the one true grail, the carpenters cup amongst the shiny goblets, this watch immediately spiked my interest in the see of copy cats. Something honest.
Chronograph of Choice
This watch comes in 2 sizes with a variety of strap options. I did request the 38mm with the olive nato, but sadly AliExpress have sent me the 40mm, so if you order one yourself, make sure you are clear on the size.
At 40mm in diameter, this version has a lug to lug of 50.2mm, but the curved profile does help a little. I’d say 50mm is top end for my 6 ¾” wrist.
You can buy this watch direct from Seagull 1963 at their retail site to ensure you get the correct size as well as choose from a variety of different straps, sizes and dial colours.
The watch sits 16mm tall on the wrist thanks to the nato bunched underneath, but wear it on a strap and this reduces to a manageable 13mm. This takes a 20mm strap, so there are plenty of options.
The case is all high polished and in 316L steel according to the website. It has a slender midcase with the lugs dropping off nicely to aid fit and a domed bezel and sapphire crystal. The case back is screw down with 10 sides framing the display of the movement.
Tianjin Seagull Watch Group
Seagull, or the Tianjin Seagull Watch Group, is a Chinese manufacturer and the largest producer of mechanical movements in the world. Founded in 1955, Seagull movements have actually had Swiss origins for over 50 years. It acquired Swiss movement manufacturer Venus in the 1960s, along with its machinery and designs, where Seagull movements are still manufactured on Venus equipment.
Although unclear, this movement was part of a government mandated development of a chronograph for the Peoples Liberation Army Air Force and based on the Venus calibre 175.
This is not a new watch, and versions of this one with the tried and tested calibre ST19 have been around for years.
Military Dial
Looking in at the dial, there’s definitely a vintage military vibe with the faded khaki that almost looks stained due to the time and rigours of war, that suits the olive nato strap perfectly.
I love the applied red star at the 12 o clock, reminding us this is proudly Chinese, and the gold coloured applied indices pointing to the centre with the Arabic numerals making the dial up scale and legible. The printed 21 Zuan referring to the 21 jewels used in the movement and Chinese text at the 6 o’clock are subtly applied and work well with the overall design.
The constant seconds register at 9 o’clock and minute counter at 3 o’clock are well proportioned and legible. All the hands are blue in colour with the chronograph seconds hand coloured red giving the dial real visual interest.
Hand Wound Chronograph
The Seagull ST1901 is a very popular hand-wound chronograph movement using a column wheel instead of a cam. Unusual for something at this end of the market, and an integrated hand wound chronograph is something of a wonder at any price, where chronograph modules are usually added to the base calibre for cost, making the watch thicker and offsetting the pushers to the crown.
Much like original Moonwatch movement, the legendary 321 from Omega, itself an integrated hand wound chronograph. An iteration of the base Lemania movement, you can see by the shape of the bridges on this Seagull ST1901, there’s more than just a passing resemblance, and that’s what makes this a little cool in my eye.
The finishing is surprisingly well executed given the price and looks great through an exhibition caseback. Like a budget Speedmaster sapphire sandwich. However, on closer inspection under a loupe, you can see this is not a well finished movement, but there’s no denying this movement looks great at arms length.
The ST1901 has 23 jewels, beats at 21,600vph with a useful 40-hour power reserve. It also has a solid reputation for both reliability and serviceability, although I imagine the cost of servicing this watch would be prohibitive relative to its original cost, and have seen movements available online for what this whole watch costs new.
So, one to wear, enjoy and ultimately not worry too much about. I can’t see myself wearing it often enough to wear it out, but do fear for the grade of lubricants used. I think this could be a good excuse to start my horological journey into disassembly and repair. Now we’re able, I’ll have to look into classes again.
At around £130 from AliExpress, there’s not really much to complain about. This is a great first mechanical watch and even for seasoned enthusiasts, the view of the hand wound chronograph movement is additive. If you don’t like the dial aesthetics, this movement can be found in many independent brands chronographs, if you don’t mind paying a little more.
