I was in town a few weeks ago as I wanted to see what all the fuss was about with the new Tissot PRX so I dropped down to Goldsmiths to have a closer look. I tried it and didn’t like it, so that was that.
While there I was taken by another Tissot sitting next to the PRX in the display case. That being the Gentleman range. This one I did like. It had a green dial, like so many this year, was well proportioned, and good value at £675 for an 80 hour automatic watch.
When I think about Tissot, I think of granite and the Rock Watch of the 1980’s. It’s one of those things that has stuck with me since Inter-railing through Europe back in 1988 and staring into the watch dealers windows in Luzern.
Tissot are part of the Swatch group and sit in a very competitive segment, just underneath Longines and above Hamilton, both fellow Swatch group brands. Tissot, have never been shy to try something new so there’s more fun to be had here than the traditional Longines and functionally classic Hamilton. Tissot having a historic connection to motorsport and currently sponsor many elite sports, most recently supporting the Tour de France with a range of interesting sports chronographs.
A bit of a mouthful, and the name Gentleman conjures up amusing Japanese brand names like Fairlady that was actually a pretty decent motor and known to the western world as the 240Z. Name aside, this Gentleman has a lot going for it. Available in a range of safe and familiar colours, I’d avoid the expense of the two tone watches, this one makes most sense in steel on steel, striking a great balance on style, quality and affordability. In fact this green and the anthracite, both with the silver cross hair dials were pretty new to the line up in 2021. The silver cross hair now distinguishing the automatic from the quartz.
This green dial watch fits nicely into my collection of black and blue dial watches. Green is the dial colour of choice for 2021 and this humble Tissot is in good company next to the green 5711 from Patek, the Moser Streamliner and the IWC Chronograph 41.
Personally, I’m looking at this as a bit of a discount Millgaus, and why I was drawn to it in the first place. The case style, dial layout and bracelet all have a very familiar feel to them giving this watch a broad appeal.
The dial is simply printed, referencing the 80 hour Powermatic movement and Selicium, referring to the silicon, anti-magnetic balance spring. The date window is nicely framed with black text on white for contrast with applied, brushed stainless steel hour markers and hands. There’s a little luminova in the hands and lume dots adjacent to the indices underlining the sports watch functionality with 100m water resistance for good measure. The sunburst affect on the dial face pops nicely and fades almost to black under certain light.
Size wise, this watch is bang on the money. It’s got a 40mm case diameter and only 11.5mm thick despite the slight dome to the sapphire crystal. Lug to lug of 48.5 and 54mm across the solid end links is just on the upper limit for my wrist with the Submariner bang in the Goldilocks zone with 48 and 51mm respectively.
The bracelet somewhat echoes the Rolex Oyster, but is closer to the Omega Aqua Terra with the twin butterfly clasp deployant that is sufficiently robust with twin trigger release.
Not a big taper on this one, going from 21mm at the lugs down to 18mm giving a substantial feel, similar to that of the Tudor Black Bay. All solid links with the centres being polished and the outer and flanks all brushed.
Unlike sister company Omega, this bracelet is held together with pins instead of screws, but I’ve found these to be easily pushed through with a pin and small jewellers hammer, so very easy to adjust. For my 6 ¾ inch wrist I removed 2 links from each side of the clasp and it’s just about spot on. There’s a little rattle from the bracelet despite having all solid links, and this gives it just enough compliance to aid comfort on the wrist.
Look at Omega, they have designed rattle in on the new Speedmaster Professional bracelet, so I see this as more deliberate on the Tissot rather than being under engineered or poorly manufactured. These things are designed and machined to very tight tolerances, so there’s no chance this one slipped through the QC process.
Does it feel cheap? Well it’s not as refined or as silky as the Submariner, and that’s most obvious in the way the centre links are polished, looking almost over polished. But is it 10 time less good? Well no.
Tissot have fitted this watch with a display case back with a sapphire crystal that doesn’t appear to have affected overall thickness. There’s a press fit case back with no obvious way of removal. This may be a sealed for life movement of which we’ll get to in a minute.
The Gentleman is available as either a quartz or in this case an automictic and equipped with what Tissot refers to as Caliber 11 and a half. This in in fact an updated version of the tried and tested ETA2824, itself dating back to the early 60’s. The mighty Swatch Group through ETA, have upgraded the old 2824 to not only differentiate from the clone calibres available outside the group since the patent lapsed, but to also bring the calibre into the 21st century for Swatch Groups budget brands such as Tissot, Certina, Hamilton and Mido.
The new base calibre ETA C07.11 has increased power reserve and accuracy, but also some anti-magnetism thanks to that silicon hairspring.
The C07.11 uses a new modular balance assembly that includes the bridge, balance spring and balance. Using modern manufacturing techniques, this assembly is pre-set by laser before mounting in the movement. Pioneered by Swatch in the System 51, there is no traditional way of regulating the balance. Tissot’s chronometer watches have this exact same movement fitted, and despite this watch having a stated accuracy of -10/+30 seconds per day, Over the last 2 weeks, this watch has only lost 4 seconds. This is deeply impressive, and I don’t suspect I’m lucky. The fact that this is the same movement fitted to the chronometer watches means all you’re paying extra for is a certificate.
The old 2824 had a 38 hour power reserve. This is increased to an amazing 80 hours, hence Powermatic 80. This means the watch can be easily put down on a Friday and be ticking away come Monday morning and wont have lost any time due to that crazy accuracy. The boost has been achieved through improvements to the spring barrel, but also by reducing the frequency from 28,800 to 21,600 vibrations per hour with no loss of accuracy. In the past frequencies have been increased to improve accuracy, but at the cost of higher wear and tear. This one will perform day in day out on tickover.
The movement will win no beauty contests mind. These manufacturing methods have been implement to reduce costs as much as improve quality, so limited decoration to the bridges and plates, the only real decoration is to the balance weight that is laser engraved with a wave pattern and some text referring to 25 jewel the movement.
I bought this watch for 2 reasons. First, I had to celebrate a new job, and second as I wanted a smart watch I could wear to go out or meet with clients without being too flash. This watch fits the bill perfectly.
You could argue that it’s a safe choice, but those familiar looks we discussed earlier will help keep this one in the collection with it’s timeless design and size. I’m sure there were a dozen other watches, potentially better watches that I could have considered, but this was a rare and spontaneous move on my part, and to think too hard about it would probably still have me drawing up lists with pros and cons for alternatives.Where watches are concerned, you should always go with your heart. Especially at this price.
I was initially worried that the accuracy would drive me mad, but this is now probably my most accurate watch in the collection bar the Apple watch, so holds it’s own nicely.
Having worn it for a few weeks now, I’d have no reservation recommending this watch as a gift or as a daily wearer. I refrain from the word beater, because, well because I just don’t beat my watches ok. I’ll baby this one like all the others, bar the Apple watch. Screw that thing.
As always, this is my opinion. I’ve not been sent this watch and have no affiliation with Tissot or any other brands. Let me know your opinion. This is a competitive segment and there’s plenty of other great pieces out there, so let me know what would you have bought instead?
| Brand | Tissot |
| Model | Gentleman |
| Reference | T127.407.11.091.01 |
| Complications | Time (Hours, Minutes, Seconds), Date Day |
| Case Diameter | 40mm |
| Height | 11.5mm |
| Lug Width | 48.5mm (54mm) |
| Crystal | Sapphire with Anti-Reflective Coating |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
| Calibre | 11 1/2”’ |
| Power Reserver | 80 hrs |
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